Agra

Akbar's tomb

The view out our front window (notice the oncoming traffic!)

Red Fort

Red Fort

Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal

A school bus Gavin! Like yours!

It was a long day, but worth it. You are all so right, I cannot imagine having made that trip in this heat with Lia! I'm glad we did it before we got her.

We left at about 7am this morning (but had been up since 4 since we're still on wacky time) and it took about 4 1/2 hours to get to Agra. Traffic was not too bad, it still amazes me that the cars and trucks, autorickshaws, bicycles, motorcycles and pedestrians all share a narrow highway. The lanes seem to be mostly for show as they drive down the middle of them or off to the side as they please. Everyone cuts everyone else off to within an inch or two, but what amazes me is no one gets upset about it. If I cut into traffic that close at home I'd get all kinds of angry hand gestures. Our guide commented that Indian people are amazingly patient, that they believe everything will happen in its own good time (I could use a bit of that zen!).

We only had our guide for our actual trip once we were in Agra I sort of wish that we had one with us all the time! He had great historical knowledge, explained all kinds of things we saw out the window and spoke amazing English. He knew a bit about what was going on with the US economy and politics and we chatted about the recent elections in India (he was thrilled that the same party will be in part for another 5 years- he said the current prime minister is a very honest and dedicated man).

I've thought all day of how to describe the ride to Agra and our first impressions of India. It is so difficult when you are getting such a small slice through an air conditioned car window. I was very aware that I was not experiencing India like those who live here do. Of course, I particularly noticed the children. The ones whose parents clung tightly to their hands and the one whose father threw her into the air until they were both giggling. Mercifully we didn't see as much of the desperate poverty as I had anticipated. There were absolutely heartbreaking moments and there is really no other word for it, the frail sick infant in his mother's arms, the children playing in garbage and clearly polluted standing water, the tarp homes that looked like they wouldn't make it through a hard rain. But overall I was surprised by how normal it all looked- people going to work, taking their children to school, buying food. It was different but so elementally the same, as well, if that makes any sense.

I remember when I was in 19 and in China that I was torn between wanting to get on the first plane back home to what felt familiar and wanting to live there forever and meet more people and see more places and see what it is truly like. That's similar to how I feel now.

The Taj was nothing less than magical and amazing. Saw many, many Americans there (probably 30% of the tourists there were American). Of course what struck me most was thank God Mumtaz didn't live to see her son kill her two other sons just to become king. We also saw Red Fort and the palaces there which was like stepping back in time, imagining the King and Queen seeing their subjects and being fanned on the rugs! The last thing we saw was Akbar's tomb- amazing building.

For those of you traveling in the future I will share the two things that have been most difficult for us thus far. Tipping and shopping. You really have to tip EVERYONE (and I of course never have money easily accessible and can never quickly figure out how much to give anyone- it stresses me!)- bathroom attendants, drivers, guides, porters, banquet servers, etc. etc. Our only foray into shopping this far was not planned- the guide took us to Cottage Ind. in Agra. The rugs and marble are beautiful but if you don't plan on spending $200 on a plate (although of course the quality is excellent) skip it- they really put on the hard sell.

Off to Kolkata early tomorrow morning! Greg and I keep saying to each other that this still doesn't feel real!

Last but not least we received word that Lia Riyani's passport is done, so we are right on schedule!